The Trail / Winter at Fort Mandan

Winter at Fort Mandan

November 1804 to April 1805

The captains ordered work to begin on the Corps of Discovery’s winter fortification on 2 November 1804; they completed it on 27 November 1804. The mens’ quarters, the storage rooms, and the 16-foot pickets front and back, were designed for defense against hostile Indians, especially the Sioux, who were quite troublesome that winter, although they never attacked the fort. “This place we have named Fort Mandan,” Lewis recorded, “in honour of our Neighbours”—their kind and congenial Mandan Indians. Here they celebrated their second Christmas and New Year’s (see Holidays on the Trail).

On 28 February 1805, sixteen men were assigned to hew six canoes from cottonwood logs, finishing them in 22 days. Meanwhile, the rest of the men made rope, made leather clothing and moccasins, cured meat, made battle axes to trade for corn, and prepared botanical, zoological, and mineralogical for shipping back to Jefferson. Clark worked on his Fort Clatsop maps.

“All the party in high Spirits,” Clark wrote approvingly, “but fiew nights pass without a Dance they are helth. except the—vn. [venereal]—which is common with the Indians and have been communicated to many of our party at this place—    those favores bieng easy acquired. all Tranquile.”

At 4 p.m. on the 7 April 1805 the Corps of Discovery headed their six canoes and two pirogues up the Missouri toward the Rocky Mountain barrier. At the same moment Corporal Warfington and a small crew, accompanied by some Indians heading for a meeting with the President (see Too Né’s Delegation), headed downriver.

Although the “Little Ice Age” was steadily warming, winters in the northern latitudes still averaged several degrees colder in 1805 than they do now. Today the Missouri River infrequently freezes over solid anywhere, even in northwestern North Dakota. The winds are just as strong, however, sculpting graceful shapes of driven snow among the rumpled edges of an ice jam.

Clark, who accompanied the hunters on a nine-day, 30-mile round trip in early February, explained what it was like to travel on the frozen river. The second day out he broke through the ice and got his feet and legs wet—a very dangerous situation. The third day out, he complained, “walking on uneaven ice has blistered the bottom of my feat, and walking is painfull to me—”

Moreover, conditions on the river changed every few days:

The ice on the parts of the River which was verry rough, as I went down, was Smothe on my return, this is owing to the rise and fall of the water, which takes place every day or two, and Caused by partial thaws, and obstructions in the passage of the water thro the Ice, which frequently attaches itself to the bottom.—   the water when riseing forses its way thro the cracks & air holes above the old ice, & in one night becoms a Smothe Surface of ice 4 to 6 Inchs thick,—     the river falls & the ice Sink in places with the water and attaches itself to the bottom, and when it again rises to its former hite, frequently leavs a valley of Several feet to Supply with water to bring it on a leavel Surfice.

 

The Story

Discover More

  • The Lewis and Clark Expedition: Day by Day by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2018). The story in prose, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals: An American Epic of Discovery (abridged) by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2003). Selected journal excerpts, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals. by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 1983–2001). The complete story in 13 volumes.